The influx of newish restaurants in Baldwin Village—Etsu, Kinton Ramen, Yakitori Bar, Elle M’a Dit—is turning the former ristorante row into a culinary destination. One recent arrival, ND Sushi, relocated from its Leaside digs in November 2011. The room is bright, sparse and zen, and although service can be slow (there are only two overworked staff on the floor), the food is good enough that it hardly matters. Braised mackerel is moist and flavourful; it comes in a sweet miso sauce that demands an extra order of rice to sop it up. An equally excellent savoury ponzu accompanies the tender seared beef sashimi. Butterfish is slightly smoky from a brief encounter with the torch. Lime-and-ginger crème brûlée for dessert combines French technique with fresh Asian flavours. The dozen sakes include cold-filtered Izumi Nama Cho Junmai, made by the Ontario Sake Company in the Distillery District.